INSIDE: Free pattern for the loom knit Mock Mitered Square featuring a corner to corner two color design.
Which way is it going?
That’s the telltale look of a true mitered square. The rows actually change direction along the middle diagonal as you can see in the mitered corner of this Ten Stitch Blanket below. A classic miter involves decreasing in the middle of a row.
While I love the look of a mitered square sometimes I want that look without moving loads of stitches. My loom knit Mock Mitered Square uses increases and decreases on the edges to recreate the look of a two color miter.
Based on Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth pattern this beginner pattern is loom knit from corner to corner. The beauty of this pattern is that is easy to memorize and loom knit. You can literally make a squared in any yarn, on any loom in any size.
Use cotton yarn and a Small Gauge (SG) loom to make a washcloth for a spa set. Switch up to bulky yarn and an extra large gauge loom for a fast baby blanket.
Make dozens of squares in your favorite yarn and piece them together to make a blanket in a chevron or zig zag pattern. The possibilities are endless!
LOOM Knit C2C Mock Mitered Square (Bi-color)
By Kristen Mangus
This C2C Mock Mitered Square is perfect for beginner loom knitters. Loom knit this iconic design from corner to corner with basic increases and decreases. While it’s not a true mitered corner it gives you the look you need without having to work any special stitches in the middle of the row.
These squares can be used alone as a washcloth or combine several in a unique design like chevrons or zig zags for a fun blanket.
(Materials list may contain affiliate links to products I used to make this project. Using these links cost you nothing, but helps support GKK.)
Yarn: Medium weight (#4) Red Heart Chic Sheep (100g / 3.5oz, 170 m / 186 yards)
Contrast A – Color Creme De Mint used in sample.
Contrast B – Color Mai Tai used in sample.
Loom: ⅜” small gauge (SG) loom with at least 48 pegs
Knitting Board AllnOne loom used in sample.
SKILL LEVEL Easy+
20 sts x 44 rows = 4” x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in garter stitch (before blocking)
Approx 7” x 7” (18 x 18 cm)
Approx = approximately
Beg = Beginning
CDD = Center Double Decrease
Cont = Continue
K = U Wrap Knit
K2tog = Knit 2 together. Right leaning decrease
Kfb = Knit into the front and back of the stitch
Kfpb = Knit into the front and purl into the back of the stitch
P = Purl
Ssp= Slip slip purl. Left leaning decrease
Pat = Pattern
Rep = Repeat
St(s) = Stitch(es)
I recommend using the Uwrap knit stitch. You may use the Ewrap knit stitch but your square will be slightly larger.
Kfb – Knit into the front and back of the stitch:
Make a True Knit stitch by wrapping your working yarn above the stitch, pull yarn loop through and place NEW stitch on outside peg without removing the existing stitch. Ewrap knit the existing stitch. Tug working yarn to tighten tension.
Kfpb – Knit into the front and purl into the back of the stitch:
Make a True Knit stitch by wrapping your working yarn above the stitch, pull yarn loop through and place NEW stitch on outside peg without removing the existing stitch. Purl the existing stitch. Tug working yarn to tighten tension.
K2tog – Knit 2 together:
Move the left stitch onto the right and knit both stitches together.
Ssp – Slip, slip, purl:
Move the right stitch onto the left and purl both stitches together.
Cast on 3 sts in Contrast A.
Foundation Row: Knit 3
Row 1: Kfb, p3. [4 sts]
Row 2: Kfpb, k4. [5 sts]
Row 3: Kfb, purl to end of row.
Row 4: Kfpb, knit to end of row.
Repeat rows 3-4 until 47 sts on the loom (approx. 4.5”) ending after a Row 4. Or continue until desired length and odd number of sts after a Row 4. Break Contrast A.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: With Color B, Knit.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: K1, k2tog, knit to end of row. [46 sts]
Row 9: P1, ssp, purl to end of row. [45 sts]
Repeat rows 8-9 until 3 sts remain.
Row 10: CDD last 3 sts [1 st].
Purl last st, cut tail and pull through. Weave in ends.